How to Identify Fabrics: A Guide for Your Next Project!

Are you lost at which type of fabric is in front of you? With the wide range of materials available in the market, identifying fabrics can be challenging. Whether you’re looking for the best material for your next project or are just curious, knowing how to identify fabrics is a valuable skill that can save you time, money, and disappointment.

In this blog, we’ll guide you through identifying fabrics, from understanding the characteristics of different materials to using simple tests to determine their properties.

Let us equip you with the knowledge you need to identify fabrics with confidence!

Understanding Fabrics

Fabrics are materials made from fibres that are woven, knitted, or bonded together to create a flexible, strong, and durable sheet of material.

Their unique properties and characteristics make them suitable for a variety of applications, from clothing and home decor to industrial and commercial uses.

Our team deals with fabric swatches almost every single day, where a small piece of fabric is cut from a larger piece of fabric.

It is often used for sampling or testing purposes, such as to see how a certain fabric looks, feels, or drapes before making a larger purchase.

Fabric swatches can also be used to experiment with different colour combinations or textures and can be a helpful tool for communicating design ideas to clients or manufacturers.

What Are the Types of Fabrics?

Fabric Identification Methods

1. Burn Test

The burn test is a simple method used to identify the type of fabric by burning a small sample of it. When a fabric is burned, it will produce different characteristics, such as the odour, the colour of the flame, and the ash residue. These characteristics can help identify the type of fabric being tested.

Materials You Need for a Burn Test

Before you begin, prepare the following items:

1. Fabric Sample

A small piece (2–3 inches) is enough if you’re testing a garment, cut from a seam or hidden area.

2. Scissors

To trim the fabric down to a safe and manageable size.

3. Tweezers or Pliers

Use these to hold the sample securely while burning. This keeps your hands protected and prevents accidents.

4. Lighter or Matchstick

A small, controlled flame source works best. Avoid large lighters or open flame tools.

5. Ceramic or Metal Dish

This is where the ash and melted residue will fall. Never perform the test without a non-flammable surface.

6. Safety Setup

Keep a bowl of water or a fire extinguisher nearby at all times. Burn tests involve open flame and must be handled responsibly.

How to Perform a Burn Test

Follow these steps to test your fabric safely:

1. Cut a small sample from an inconspicuous part of the fabric.

2. Hold the sample with tweezers or pliers, keeping fingers away from the flame.

3. Bring the flame to the fabric edge and ignite gently.

4. Watch how the fabric behaves while burning—this is the most important part of the test.

5. Let the material finish burning, then place it in the ceramic dish.

6. Examine the ash or residue once fully cooled.

7. Record your observations and compare them with known burn characteristics.

Important:
A burn test is helpful but not 100% conclusive. Always combine this method with other checks, such as feel, sheen, stretch, and water absorption.

What to Observe During a Burn Test

Different fibres react to fire in unique ways. Pay close attention to:

1. Flame Colour & Behavior

• Does it burn steadily?

• Flicker?

• Curl away from the flame?

2. Smoke Colour & Smell

• White, grey, or black smoke?

• Smells like paper? Hair? Plastic? Chemical fumes?

3. Burn Speed

• Does it ignite instantly or slowly?

• Does it self-extinguish?

4. Ash or Residue Texture

• Soft and powdery?

• Hard melted beads?

• Black and crunchy?

Typical Burn Characteristics by Fabric Type

Cotton

• Burns steadily with a yellow–orange flame

• Smells like burning paper

• Leaves soft, grey-white ash

Polyester

• Melts and burns with sputtering flame

• Strong chemical/plastic smell

• Forms hard, black melted beads

Silk

• Burns slowly with a light blue flame

• Smells like burning hair (protein fibre)

• Leaves crisp black ash

Wool

• Burns very slowly and may self-extinguish

• Smells like burning hair

• Leaves black, crunchy ash

2. Water Test

The water test for fabrics is a simple test that can be used to determine the absorbency of a fabric. It involves placing a small drop of water onto the fabric and observing how the water is absorbed.

How to Perform a Water Test on Fabric

Follow these steps to identify how a fabric absorbs or repels moisture:

1. Cut a small sample from a hidden part of the garment, such as the seam allowance or hem.

2. Lay the fabric flat on a clean, dry surface.

3. Using a dropper or teaspoon, place one small droplet of water onto the fabric.

4. Observe the behaviour immediately:

• Does the water bead on the surface?
• Does it spread out?
• Does it sink quickly into the fibres?

5. Wait a few seconds to see if absorption continues or stops.

6. Blot the droplet gently with tissue or a paper towel and check for:

• A visible water ring
• Slow absorption
• No absorption at all

7. Record your observations and compare them with known fabric characteristics.

Important:
Like the burn test, the water test is not fully conclusive on its own. It should be used together with other checks (burn, texture, stretch, drape) for reliable identification.

Also note that some fabrics may stain or distort when exposed to water, especially silks and delicate blends. Always test on a discreet area.

How Different Fabrics Behave in a Water Test

Cotton

• Absorbs water instantly

• Holds moisture

• Leaves a clear damp mark

Polyester

• Water beads on the surface

• Very slow or minimal absorption

• No visible water ring after blotting

Silk

• Absorbs water slowly and evenly

• No obvious beading

• May leave a faint water mark

Wool

• Absorbs water slowly

• Fibres hold moisture well

• Leaves a damp spot, similar to cotton but slower to form

Physical Characteristics

Several physical characteristics of fabrics can be used to identify their type.

Here are some common characteristics to look for:

• Texture

The texture of the fabric can give clues about its composition.

Natural fibres such as cotton and linen have a crisp, matte texture, while synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon have a smoother, shinier texture.

• Drape

The way a fabric hangs or drapes can also indicate its composition. Natural fibres like silk and rayon have a soft, fluid drape, while synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon may be stiffer and hold their shape more.

• Sheen

The level of shine or lustre on fabric can be an indicator of its composition. Natural fibres like cotton and linen are typically matte or have a slight sheen, while synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon may have a higher sheen or gloss.

• Weight

The weight of the fabric can also be used to identify its composition. Natural fibres such as wool and cotton tend to be heavier than synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon.

Pitfalls to Watch Out For

Even with simple tests like burn and water checks, fabric identification can get tricky. Many materials behave differently depending on coatings, blends, or finishing treatments. Watch out for these common mistakes to avoid misjudging your fabric.

1. Coatings Can Change Test Results

Water-resistant coatings can make a natural fabric feel synthetic. Burn tests may also behave differently. Always check with the factory whether the sample is coated.

2. Blends Don’t Behave Consistently

Poly-cotton or nylon-spandex blends can confuse burn and water tests. You might see melting + ash at the same time. Use multiple tests to confirm.

3. Beware of “Fake Cotton”

Some low-grade polyester fabrics are textured to look like cotton. The giveaway:

• unnaturally even surface

• slight sheen

• bounces back too perfectly when crumpled

4. Shrinkage Issues in Branded Apparel

Natural fabrics can shrink up to 5–10% during washing. If you’re producing T-shirts, hoodies, or uniforms, always confirm pre-shrunk or sanforized finishing.

5. Color Fastness Problems

Cheap dyes bleed easily and affect brand logos. Always request:

• wash fastness test

• light fastness test

6. Misleading Sustainability Labels

“Eco,” “natural,” or “recycled” are NOT certifications. This is where you protect your brand reputation by asking for proper documentation.

Fabric Certifications to Look For

To ensure transparency, ethical sourcing, and sustainability, request these globally recognized certifications:

1. GOTS – Global Organic Textile Standard

• Ensures organic fibre content

• Requires environmental & social compliance

• Ideal for apparel, uniforms, and eco-friendly giveaways

2. FSC for Paper-Based Fabrics (e.g., washable paper/vegan leather)

• Certifies responsible forest sourcing

• Useful for packaging, hang tags, and vegan-leather items

3. GRS – Global Recycled Standard

• Verifies recycled content (e.g., rPET)

• Covers processing, chemical restrictions, and social criteria

• Essential for brands promoting recycled campaigns

4. Bluesign®

• Ensures reduced chemical use and eco-friendly manufacturing

• Ideal for outdoor gear, backpacks, and sports-related promo items

5. OEKO-TEX Standard 100

• Tests for harmful chemicals

• Ensures fabric is safe for end-users

• Good for children’s items, apparel, and anything worn close to skin

6. BCI – Better Cotton Initiative

• Promotes sustainable cotton farming practices

• Popular with global apparel brands

Where Does ODM Come In?

At ODM, we understand that choosing the right fabric material for your production needs is critical to the success of your project. That’s why our team of experts is dedicated to helping you select the best fabric that meets your specific requirements and standards.

We work with the best suppliers in the industry to ensure that we source high-quality fabrics that meet your expectations. Our team is committed to providing you with personalized service and support throughout the entire process, from fabric selection to production and delivery.

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